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Devonport & North Head

North Head & Devonport

When we lived in Auckland North Head was one of my favourite spots to take visitors to get a perspective on the city from up high.  I know you can get higher in the sky tower but this is a better view and it’s all outdoors, there’s nothing between you and the sea air.  When we are back in town this is still one of my favourite places to go for an hour or two and appreciate again why the city is known as the city of sails.

The Devonport area is worth a visit for its quirky seaside village atmosphere, great views, beaches and an interesting history spanning volcanic eruptions, a pre-European Maori Pa, colonial settlement and war time defences.  The remnants of the past can still be seen in the area today.

Getting there

You can of course drive to Devonport and perhaps combine it with a visit to the North Shore beaches but one of the attractions for visitors to the city is the quick and easy ferry access.  Fuller Ferries run every 30 minutes from the historic ferry building in downtown Auckland.  It takes only 12 minutes to make the crossing and will cost $6.10 per adult.  If you don’t have time to take a day trip to one of the islands in the gulf this still gives you a chance to experience the city of sails from the water.

Custom House

What to do in Devonport

From the modern Devonport Ferry building turn right and it’s a short walk through to Devonport village.  The village is home to a number of galleries, restaurants, bars and cafes, most places have a really good vibe going so it’s definitely worth checking out a few.  If you wander around the streets for a while you’ll also get a feel for the older style village of impressive 19th century villas that have been restored and maintained largely sympathetically with their original design.

If you had turned left out of the ferry building you’d head towards the naval yards.  It’s New Zealand’s only naval base and has been in operation here since 1841.  In the photo below on the right hand edge you can see what I am fairly sure is the supply ship HNZMS Endeavour.  That I can say that with any confidence says far more about the limited number of boats operated by the New Zealand navy than it does about my military general knowledge.

View over Devonport

 

There are 5 beaches in walking distance of the ferry building; Stanley Bay, Devonport Beach, Torpedo Bay, Cheltenham Beach and Narrowneck Beach.  Of these Cheltenham and Narrowneck which face out into the gulf with great views of Rangitoto Island would be my favourite but the harbour beaches are nice for a walk and a relax.

Exploring North Head

The other thing to do while you are here is to walk to Maungauika or North Head.  North head was formed during a series of volcanic eruptions around 50,000 years ago making it one of the older volcanic cones in Auckland.   Maungauika is the Maori name, maunga means mountain so the name means mountain of Uika.  It comes from a traditional Maori legend

You can wander all over the mountain but there are 3 walking trails to explore depending on your interests and how much you like climbing.  This map of North Head from the Department of Conservation shows it clearly.  Each of the tracks are about a kilometre long but if you plan on doing 2-3 you won’t walk the whole distance as they do join together and overlap.

The coastal loop

This track is also a more scenic option if you want to walk around to Cheltenham beach.  The coastal loop winds around the base of North Head past rocky outcrops and a secluded bay before reaching the popular and beautiful Cheltenham beach.  A good portion of this track was originally built during WWII by the searchlight crews.   The sparkling waters of the Hauraki gulf make this a very enjoyable and easy walk.

Along the way your past various points of interest including:

  • Annie’s cave is hidden behind the searchlight fixture.  It is thought to have been built by convicts and be used to service the minefields
  • Volcanic history.  In parts of the cliff you are able to clearly see the layers in the rock, each layer was formed by a separate eruption
  • On the northern end are the anti-torpedo boat defenses, these were added in 1942 to protect Cheltenham Beach
  • As you had back along the western side there are a couple of scrapped guns.  The intact 6″ disappearing gun is from Bastion Point on the other side of the harbour, the 8″  that has been broken down was used on North Head.

The Tunnels Loop

North Head has been used as a fortified defense at four distinct times in New Zealands history.

It was used as a Maori Pa by the Ngati Paoa tribe who settled in the Devonport area until they were attacked and forced out by the Nga Puhi tribe in the late 1770’s.

In the 1880’s the country feared a Russian invasion and North Head was one of 3 forts established to protect the city.  The invaders never arrived but the very latest in weaponry, an 8 inch disappearing gun was installed in each of the forts and is still in place at North Head.  On this trail you’ll be able to take a closer look.

North Head Disappearing Gun
North Head

During both WWI and WWII North Head was used as a defense post and to house soldiers in barracks and tents.  Again New Zealand’s remote location protected it from invaders on it’s home soil and the heavy guns and equipment weren’t fired other than in training exercises.

North Head Tunnels

In additional to several gun placements remaining on this trail you’ll find the access point to the underground tunnels that run through the hillside.  The north battery is where the first guns were placed in 1870.  The tunnels have been made safe and some are now open to the public.  It’s pitch dark down there so a torch would be a good idea although I’ve never remembered on and rely on iPhone of fumbling along in the dark.  Fortunately New Zealand doesn’t have wildlife that’s going to hurt you so you’re not going to come across a deadly snake or spider down there in the dark.

The Summit Loop

From the summit loop you get the best views out to the near and distant islands of the Hauraki Gulf, across the harbour to the city and up the North Shore Beaches.

Rangitoto view from North Head

The long grey shown here was built in 1885 as barracks for the Armed Constabulary, the predecessor of the Army.  It was later used to house prisoners who provided the labour to build the fortifications.

Barracks at North Head

The stone building next to the barracks was the kitchen, built of stone to avoid fire.  It now houses an audio visual display on the history of north head.  Further down the hill are 4 more buildings, the smaller one dating from 1910 and the other 3 from WWII.

Kitchen Building North Head 1885

Enjoying your day in Devonport

Whether you choose to spend your day lazing on the beach at Cheltenham, climbing North Head to soak up the history and 360 degree views or sipping some awesomely good coffee while soaking up the vibes of the Deveonport Village this day trip has something to offer most visitors to the city.

We hope you enjoy your visit to Auckland as much as we do when we get back there.  Please share your experiences in the city of sails and any reommendations for visitors in the comments below.

 

23 Comments

  • Thanks for introducing me to Devonport & North Head Toni – I originally thought you were going to be writing about Tasmania, because we have a town called Devonport there too!!

    Can’t wait to visit New Zealand – we’ve been keeping our eye out for cheap flights now that we’re back in Aus, figure this is the perfect time to start planning a trip. Hopefully we can get there soon!

  • I’ve yet to visit New Zealand but after having a read of your post I’d like to add Devonport to the itinerary 😀 Looks like a great place to walk around and just ‘be’. With the great weather and scenery it must be a great place to explore 🙂

  • Auckland always impresses me, so much to do and see a few kilometers away and you get a new perspective every time. Didn’t know much about NZ in WWI and WWII or about Russian invasion. Interesting read!

    • Having been through the New Zealand school system I think many Kiwis don’t know much about NZ during the war years unless they had grandparents (now great grandparents I guess) that talked about it. The curriculum for history focuses heavily on the wider international experience, particularly the UK, during those years.

  • Great post! We are headed to NZ for a month early next year (my first visit!). Will be in Auckland for about a week, and I was recently trying to decide if Davenport would be worth the trip. Thanks for the firsthand advice – the vibe looks fun and I love how easy it is to access. Will also be following your suggestion on the North Head view!

  • I think New Zealand is fast becoming a country we need to visit because of your lovely photos. New Zealand seems so far from everything and is why it’s a bit behind on our list but Devonport sure sounds lovely.

    • New Zealand and Australia are a long way from the rest of the world, we absolutely feel it from this side too with the costs of travelling everywhere being that much higher and time consuming in transit. Still if you do ever get the chance then New Zealand has so much to offer in a compact space, it’s definitely worth a place on most peoples list.:)

  • The first thing that strikes me from your pictures is the wonderful weather!! Sitting here in an absolutely swelteringly sunny Mumbai (India) I can completely appreciate the weather in your pics. Can’t wait to get to Maori land someday!

    • Coming from tropical Queensland we really enjoyed the more temperate climate for a few days too. Everything is such a vibrant green from the regular rainfall which is something I’d forgotten since we lived there.

  • I will definitely be keeping these in mind for when I go to NZ. It’s been in my list and I’ve been dreaming of it for awhile now. Maybe it’s time to make it happen.

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  • Beautiful photos! I would never have known about this place if not for this article… now it makes me want to visit New Zealand (even more!!).

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